Peter Tiedt Lesotho Trip pics December 2005

Ecotracs Lesotho Trip

15 - 18 December 2005

Participants 

Peter & Gareth Tiedt                           Land Rover Defender 110 Td5 CSW

Mike & Gudrun Lauterbach                  Land Rover Defender 110 Tdi PUP

Chard & Birgit Black, Eckhard Keller      Land Rover Defender 110 Tdi CSW

Peter Zagel                                         Land Cruiser FJ 79 4500EFI

Routing

Home / Pietermaritzburg / Bulwer / Underberg / Sani Pass / St James / Taung / Thaba Tseka / Katse  Dam / Leribe / Ficksburg / Clarens / Sterkfontein Dam / Bezuidenhout's Pass / Geluksburg / Estcourt  / Home.

Distances (Pinetown to Pinetown)

GPS Distance Travelled                        1 140 km

Vertical Distance Travelled                   39 032 meters

DAILY REPORTS

Thursday 15 December (205 km)

The Land Rover was mostly packed the previous evening, so it was an easy departure at 14h30 for the rendezvous in Pietermaritzburg at 15h30.  After everyone arrived, we left for Underberg via Boston, Lundy's Hill and Bulwer.  We arrived at Peter Zietsman's farm near Underberg at about 18h00 and were  warmly welcomed by Peter and Jane. 

Camp was quickly set up overlooking the entire Underberg valley, and we were treated to a double rainbow from the showers in the valley.  Peter and Jane made all facilities available and the evening was concluded with a good braai, good overlanding chit-chat and hot coffee.  Early to bed because of a planned 07h00 start the next day.

Friday 16 December (264 km)

Everyone was up bright and early, and after a quick breakfast bade farewell to Peter and Jane, with grateful thanks for their wonderful hospitality.  First stop was at Underberg Kwikspar for needed perishables, and then via Himeville to Sani Pass.  About 4km before the SA border post we stopped to reduce tyre pressures (1.8 bar all round on the Defender) and then did the formalities at the border post very quickly.  The trip up Sani was uneventful, but I noticed that the pass is becoming a bit rockier - perhaps maintenance is being somewhat neglected these days.

At the top the usual strong wind was blowing and the Lesotho formalities were also cleared in  double quick time, everyone paying their R8.00 road tax with R10 notes (no change as is the norm).

A quick visit to the "Highest Pub in Africa", and then after the compulsory photo shoot at the now famous sign, we took the road to Mokhotlong, climbing to over 3200 meters along the way.

Every few hundred meters we found Lesotho children at the side of the road, with the never-ending "sweeeeeeettts" call.  Needless to say no sweets were provided.  At St James, near Mokhotlong, we turned left onto the Taung road.

On this stretch Peter Zagel suffered a rock against the Landcruiser's windscreen which left a nasty crack.  It appeared to be the work of a teenager on a bank high above the road.  Chard also suffered a stick thrown onto the side of the Land Rover (fortunately no damage done).  The waypoint for these unfortunate occurences have  been sent to T4A.  It is a real pity that these incidents are becoming more common, as this will not do tourism in Lesotho any good at all.

Shortly after this incident we stopped for lunch at a beautiful spot near a river. (S29.54627  E28.77790).  Lunch over and we headed for Taung, Thaba Tseka and then Katse Dam where we arrived at 16h15.  We quickly found out about the Dam Tour, looked at the campsite next to the visitor center (no  facilities and exposed) and decided to bushcamp at a spot recommended to Chard by a previous visitor.  (No facilities is perhaps not quite correct as you can use the ablutions at the visitor center, but these are minimal).

We headed down the hill towards the bridge over the Malibamatso River, turned right just before the bridge and found the campsite to be already occupied.  No problem, there were plenty more suitable spots and camp was quickly set up at the river’s edge.

Over a beer, Chard challenged Gareth to climb the hill opposite the campsite in under 20 minutes for a prize of R500.  Dad was also roped into the challenge, as were the rest of the party, and in no time the prize stood at R1000.  Gareth grabbed his hiking boots, set off across the river, put his boots on and started climbing.  Back at camp the debate raged furiously as to whether he would make it or not.  At first it was "no chance", this then became "maybe" and finally we realised that he was going to make it with time to spare.  Gareth triumphantly stood on top of the hill, to the sound of LR hooters, having well and truly earned his prize.

The evening was rounded off with a good supper, accompanied by some of the Cape's best Red and grapefruit schnapps.

Saturday 17 December (255 km)

We decided on a latish start as the Dam Tour was only scheduled for 11h00, so we ambled up the hill to the Visitor Centre at about 09h30, intent on showering and freshening up. 

Now that we were back on tar, tyre pressures were increased to notmal.

The tour guide (Doris) arrived at about 09h45 and promptly announced that the tour was at 10h00.  It was just as well we that were there, otherwise we would have missed the tour. 

A brief talk about the Dam was followed by a 30 min video which was 10 years old and shot before the dam was even completed.  The video is optional and in my opinion can be skipped as it is mostly talking heads (including Pik Botha!!!!). 

After this we went to our vehicles and were taken to the Dam Control Room, near the bottom of the dam.  We were shown the control room, the emergency and control sluices (massive hydraulics), and then the inspection and drainage galleries, together with the associated equipment for measuring stress and seepage in the Dam wall.  Very interesting stuff, and a bargain at R5.50 each.

The dam crest was the next stop, and all enjoyed the views and photo opportunities from this magnificent dam.

With no time to waste we set off for Leribe, the border and then Clarens.  En-route we stopped to look at the Matsouko Weir (which supplements Katse).  The approach roads to the weir were recorded for T4A.  We crossed the Malibamatso bridge and then started climbing the Malutis, with a lunch stop near the top of the Mafika Lisiu pass.

Descending the pass was an awesome experience.  The altitude change is over 1100 meters from top to bottom and there is stunning scenery all the way.  Definitely to be repeated one day.

The rest of the trip to Clarens and Bokpoort Holiday Farm was uneventful, with border facilities at Ficksburg very quick, although busy.  SA Border Post staff seem quite slack here, they just stamped the passports  without scanning in the barcodes.

Clarens was briefly visited to buy wood and ice creams, and then we left for Bokpoort Holiday Farm, arriving shortly after 17h00 (R40.00 per person per night).  The best campsites were already taken, but we found a suitable spot not too far from the adequate ablutions.

The evening was spoilt by a cold, strong and variable wind which made for a difficult campfire, not to mention the wet wood supplied by the shop near the Caltex garage in Clarens.  However, the company more than made up for the disappointment, and another good evening of overlanding stories was  enjoyed.

Sunday 18 December (396 km)

After getting up ay about 06h30, it was decided to treat ourselves to breakfast at the Golden Gate Protea Hotel.  At  R85 pp this was fairly pricey, but the value for money was worth it.  No lunch was required or needed after that breakfast!!!

Some of the group refuelled at Golden Gate, and the route took us on to Sterkfontein Dam, where we turned  left for Kerkenberg and Retief Klip.  A few minutes were spent there, thinking back to the days before Land Rovers and Land Cruisers, and realising that those who hauled their wagons over the escarpment  were perhaps better overlanders than us!

From Kerkenberg we headed for Bezuidenhout's Pass.  This was everything we expected and became a real highlight of the trip.  The pass is difficult in places, and also choosing the correct line on some of the steep descents was essential.  Some tricky steps were encountered, as well as some nasty cross-axle ditches.  All got down safely with Gareth having a field day with the camera.

At Geluksburg, Peter Z bade us farewell and headed up the escarpment again, this time up the tarred Middeldale Pass to do some business in Johannesburg.

The rest of the group headed for the N3 and the road home.  Farewells were said and the three remaining Land Rovers headed homewards.  Welcome rain bucketed down from Howick to Durban and the front door was reached shortly after 16h30.

Highs and Lows

Lows

Stone throwing in Lesotho

Exposed Campsites at Bokpoort and Katse

Highs

Great hospitality from Peter and Jane Zietsman

Excellent company

Sani Pass (as always)

Gareth's Mountain Ascent

Katse Tour

Mafika Lisiu Pass

Breakfast at Golden Gate Protea Hotel

Bezuidenhout's Pass

Peter Tiedt

22 December 2005.