FITTING ONBOARD AIR – YORK COMPRESSOR
Land Cruiser FJ43 with a Chev 350 V8
The York Compressor provides a better solution for compressor needs than the eccentric vane type (Sanden Compressor) commonly found on most vehicles. The York has a separate oil reservoir and does not use the gas that circulates in an air-conditioning system to lubricate the compressor like the Sanden. The York functions like a “normal” garage compressor, with pistons connected to a crankshaft. It is extremely efficient, robust and relatively compact. A lot has been written about the fitting of onboard air and a search on the web will provide a huge amount of information. The York is not used much nowadays and following a bit of searching, I picked up the York, which was a reconditioned unit from a aircon fitment center for R 600,00 For more information on the York visit the following websites: http://www.ccicompressor.com/Features.aspx Service manual at: http://www.ccicompressor.com/docs/ccisect1.pdf
Space under the bonnet was reasonably tight and the only available space was on the engine side of the radiator, on the driver’s side since the alternator sits on the passenger’s side.	The compressor came without a pulley. A used pulley and some pipe fittings were obtained from Cannon Cool in Pinetown for R360,00.
The bracket involved lots of measurements, fitting removing, re-fitting and cutting and welding of little bits and pieces of steel. This is the final work of art. I have not apportioned cost to the bracket, since it is made up of bits and pieces. If you had to pay someone else it would be expensive, because it can be time consuming.	The Fitted York - viewed from the top. The compressor was mounted, directly to the engine block and I had to manufacture an adjustable idler pulley so that the belt could be tensioned. The existing drive pulley from the engine crankshaft also had to be replaced and a used one was obtained from Thundersport, Durban’s friendly, local V8 shop.
A closer view of the fitted York. Initially the intake was routed to suck air via a connection to the engine’s air intake. For this purpose a piece of clear PVC pipe was used.	Later I was offered a small filter that screwed onto the intake socket which provided a more compact clean air solution. The little black plastic filter can be seen here. Both solutions are fine the one is just a little easier.
After some “sukkel” and a lot of effort, eventually the York was in and I had compressed air. However the effect was not any better than a prr-ppr electric compressor since the only air that could be used was that being generated by the York pumping the piston up and down - greater volume, but not offering any huge advantage over a high quality electrical pump. What was needed was a supply of air in an air-tank.
Phase 2 - Compressed Air-Tank
In order to provide a reservoir of air to operate air tools and to provide the big “whoosh” of air to seat a tubeless tire onto the rim, I commenced with a section of 140 mm diameter schedule 40 seamless pipe. This pipe is also known as steam pipe and is almost 6mm thick. Two brackets were welded on which bolted directly to the chassis of the Cruiser. Holes were drilled in the pipe, where ¼ inch BSP collars were then fitted and welded. The cost of the schedule 40 pipe was about R350. In the picture alongside the fitted air-tank can be seen, bolted to the chassis, in front of a square rear bumper that I made which doubles as a water tank.
To fit all the fittings and connections for the inlets and outlets, ¼ inch BSP threaded socket connections were first turned down on the outside, so that a small collar resulted. They were then inserted from the inside of the pipe and then welded inside and outside. The reason for this is that I do not want anything to pop out. The shoulder provides a natural restraint to prevent any possibility of a blow out.
Two end-caps were turned, which fitted flush inside the schedule 40 pipe. One was welded flush with the outside, after which I turned a shoulder collar that fits around the pipe and welded this on to retain the end-cap.	Three collared sockets were welded on the inside of the second end cap which is the business end. This was welded deeper into the pipe so that the quick connector and the over pressure “pop-off valve” were fully enclosed in the pipe, as can be seen on the next photograph.
To the business end, the quick-connect hose outlet, the over pressure valve (pop-off valve) were fitted. A third outlet was blanked off for a pressure gauge, or any other ¼ inch BSP fitting that might be required at a later stage. The over-pressure valve blows off air once it reaches 8- bar. Adjustable valves are available as well as ones that will pop of at a higher pressure. 8 bar inside the tank is however more than sufficient. When the air-tank is full, there is sufficient volume to re-bead the Bruisers 33x12.5x15 tyres, without having to start the compressor. The tap on the left of the picture is the outlet for the bumper water tank.
On the inlet side, an air hose routed from the compressor through the chassis was connected to a non return (one way) valve, to prevent the air in the tank from pressurizing back into the compressor. This was the most expensive little fitting in the region of R150,00 The air hose is rated at 10 Bar and should the pop-off valve malfunction, the next thing to blow before the tank, would be the air hose.	A future modification will be a pressure switch that will automatically turn the compressor off once it achieves pressure. Currently the tank is turned on with a switch mounted on the dashboard, which is also connected to a light which comes on. A safety cover is fitted to the switch to prevent accidentally switching the compressor on. Failsafe should be the word here and under the circumstances I believe that there are enough safety measures built in to prevent the tank from over pressurizing.
Since water is a by-product of compressed air, the tank has to be able to release any water that gets trapped in the tank. A bleed valve was therefore fitted to bleed off any water that may accumulated in the air tank.	The underside of the air-tank showing the water release tap and the protection collar made of 4mm steel welded around the valve.
Alongside are all the bits and pieces that went in to make the tank. Included are a quick connect fitting, water release tap (bleeder), tool oiler, water trap/filter, over pressure valve, one-way non-return valve hose clamps and other connections. These were all obtained from Oil Power, in Pinetown. The price of all the fittings came to about R450 Total cost, including air-hose and other small items like bolts and hose clamps – about R2000,00. Considering the cost of a 12v Thomas pump and the advantages, it is money well spent.
Time to fire it all up! With the compressor churning away the air tank filled until the overpressure valve hit 8 bar where after it released the excess air. The big whoosh of the release can clearly be heard and indicates that the tank has reached capacity. Actual testing came a week or so later when we went up Sani Pass. I released some air from the tyres and after the trip I pumped the tires again. The air hose pressure gauge held a steady 6 bar with the engine idling whilst I pumped the big 12.5 x 33 tires. No problem!	The tyre inflator and gauge, all fitted with quick-connect fittings which are attached to an air hose attached to the air-tank. Whilst the main purpose of having on-board air is to have a large enough supply of air to reseat a tubeless tyre, additional advantage is gained since you can now operate a variety of air-tools and become almost self sufficient – at least whilst the engine is turning. The same arguments that are however applicable to an electric winch vs. a mechanical or hydraulic winch are applicable here.
Air tools were bought from Adendorf’s. (http://www.tooltime.co.za/ A mini-grinder, a drill and a ratchet were the obvious choices. Besides small grinding requirements you also need a tungsten carbide bit, which is the correct way to clean a tear in a side wall before fitting a gaiter in the event of a tyre being cut.	A drill is a great thing to have anywhere. I have also used the drill on a number of occasions in the workshop, since it is compact and can get into places that my big electric drill cannot.
The ratchet drive has obvious uses and works great when trying to tighten or loosen a bolt/nut in spaces that allows minimum movement of the ratchet handle when using a normal hand ratchet.	The air tools work fine albeit that they flatten the tank and every now and then I have to wait for pressure to build up again. However, they do not flatten the tank so rapidly that it becomes a hindrance to use them. Greater volume would have been better but then a larger tank would have to be fitted and somewhere compromises have to be made.
Probably the most used item is this little air-duster. Blowing out dirt and dust in the Cruiser, clearing blocked gas jets, keeping teeth dry, getting a fire going. The marvels of the modern bushman?	A regulator and water vapor remover have been fitted to a separate hose which can connect between any air tool that I use. Similarly a tool oiler can also be used on any tool fro which oiling was required and would connect in line according to requirement.
The real test for the system and the air tools came some months later when I attended the Old Trucks meet at Babanango. One of the “Old trucks” a Jeep Gladiator turned off the bolts that attach the prop shaft to the gearbox and required an “easy-out” to remove the broken studs. The offending broken bolt was first ground flush with the dye grinder and then drilled with the air-drill and removed. I might add that everyone was suitably impressed with the installation and the fact that these tools were available and did their job.	All smiles! What a luck having a mobile workshop in the bush.
	At the same time the air duster came in very handy when I lost a filling on a tooth. The sharp edge was in a very awkward position and caused my tongue to become very sensitive. Eben Henning mixed up some quick set Araldite, whilst I blew the cavity dry with compressed air. My wife then did the patching of the broken tooth. It worked and held till I got back to the dentist to sort the filling out. The grinder also came in very handy when I had to grind off the inner ring of a stuck bearing from a trailer axle, when I stopped to assist a stranded boat owner, who had lost his trailer wheel due to the bearing collapsing, next to the road. This, self acknowledged, mechanically inept citizen was totally amazed, especially when I produced the right replacement bearing from the “Tricky Green Bruiser’s” tool bin. If you need any help contact me at boardman@mweb.co.za